Leaks...

    Hello folks.


    I'm new to this forum.


    I purchased a petromax 150 HK from Pelam and received it yesterday.


    Started using it right away, and noticed two issues:


    1. Right away I noticed that there is a leak at the ventilation screw #13. I removed it and checked for particles etc and cleaned it but it still leaks, no matter how tight I turn it (hand tight).


    2. Later on during the day, as I was pumping up the lantern, I noticed that kerosene was leaking out down the fount. I noticed that it's coming from the end of the nozzle, where the cleaning needle sticks out. Even though the hand wheel #111 is pointing up, there is kerosene leaking from the nozzle.


    I confirmed that it leaks even if the cleaning needle is up or down. I removed the needle and nozzle and replaced it with the spare parts that came with the lantern, but it still leaks.


    What can I do? In the case of the ventilation screw, it looks like the whole manometer unit should be replaced. In the case of the leak at the nozzle, is there some adjustment that I can try? Or do I just have a defective lantern that should be sent back?


    Looking foward to hearing any suggestions or if anyone has any similar experiences to share I'd really appreciate it.


    Thanks,


    Stuart

    Hello Stuart, first you can try to use pliers for the screw #13. Tight and untight it a few times, then it normally stops leaking.
    When the hand wheel #111 is pointing up, there is a valve at the lower end of the generator that should be closed. You don´t see this valve, it is in the fuel fount. It is #193. This valve can be leaking, to change it you have to separate almost the complete lantern, and you have to change several gaskets.
    The needle in the nozzle can not be used as a valve!
    If you use alcohol for preheating, you don´t need this valve. You have the lantern without pressure, and the hand wheel is pointing downwards. Then burn 1 or 2 times the cup with alcohol and short before the alcohol is burnt you close the screw #13 and start pumping. After a few strokes the lantern should start lighting, the amount of light you can regulate with the pressure in the fuel fount. Never regulate the light with the hand wheel!
    To stop lighting, you have to loose the screw #13, and let it open. Because of changing temeratures there can arise a little pressure in the fount, and with a leaking valve #193 the fuel comes out the nozzle.
    If you use the rapid preheater, you have to change the valve #193, because while preheating there is a pressure in the fount.
    And never store the lantern with a closed screw #13 and pressure in the fount!
    with kind regards
    Jan

    Hello Jan,


    Thanks for your response.


    I did try actually use pliers on #13 to see if it would help hold the pressure and it did help - I just didn't feel good about using pliers on something that i assumed should be done hand tight - I didn't yet try what you are suggesting about tightening it a few times so i will try that and hopefully that will help.


    Ah! I assumed that the needle itself acted as the valve...I should have looked at the technical drawings! In the mean time, as I'm dying to use this lantern (I think I'm already getting addicted!) I'll do it by priming it with the spiritus..that all seems to make good sense.


    Tomorrow, when I have more time, I'll take the whole thing apart and see if I can rectify the possible leak at valve #193. I hope I can do this without having to order new parts so soon, but we'll see.


    One more question if you don't mind:


    Burning the mantle first time- do you recommend doing this outside the lantern (disassembled) or is do you recommend burning it inside the lantern
    using, say, the rapid heater.


    I tried both: when I did it inside with the preheater, the mantle seemed to 'stick' to the exuberator #152 and when I later removed #117 part of the mantle stayed stuck to the exuberator leaving a big hole. If I burn the mantle outside, there's also the chance of breaking it against the exuberator when putting it together. I just wondered if there is any trick that works well?


    Anyhow, I feel better now having gotten your advice.


    Thank you. Much Appreciated.


    Stu.

    OK.


    I took the whole thing apart!


    Then I looked at valve #196. The little rubber seal in #193 had become
    unseated - sort of at an angle - I pulled it out and looked at it - looked OK so I put it back in properly, reassembled the fount, pumped it up full of air and tested it in the sink. Looked good, so I put everthing back together, put some fuel in and pumped it up.


    Looking good now!! So far no gas leaks. That trick with the pliers on #13 worked too, although the threads are still a little tight.


    Thanks again for your help.


    Regards,


    Stu.

    I also had a leak at the bleeder valve. The pliers is a good trick, but don't apply to much torque. Also, I recommend putting a piece of leather or thick cloth between the valve wheel and pliers so as not to mar the finish. The reason this trick works is that the tip of the bleeder valve and the hole that it fits in are brass. A modest amount of force will slightly deform each, creating a tight fit. Once you get the tight fit, you should be able to tighten the valve wheel by hand in the future.


    Paul

    Paul

    Zitat

    Original von stuart


    Burning the mantle first time- do you recommend doing this outside the lantern (disassembled) or is do you recommend burning it inside the lantern
    using, say, the rapid heater.


    I tried both: when I did it inside with the preheater, the mantle seemed to 'stick' to the exuberator #152 and when I later removed #117 part of the mantle stayed stuck to the exuberator leaving a big hole.


    Hi Stuart,


    first of all, welcome here. :welcome:


    We had same topic a few days ago in a german thread - the trick is, while positioning the mantle, to pull it a bit away from the exuberator.
    Best Results you'll reach by crimping it a little bit while fixing the mantle to the ceramic-burner.


    After that, you should slowly burn the mantle first time.
    I do prefer to burn it inside the lantern by shortly Rapid-use, but with alcohol-start, it is a less risc. :done:


    Best regards, Björn

    God created men.
    Sam Colt made them equal!

    Folks,


    Again, thanks for the helpful advice re the mantle and bleeder valve.


    I've had it running all day now and it's working so much better.


    Much appreciated!


    Stu.

    Just received a brand new 829 500CP that has exact same problem with part #13. I was first quite disappointed with this fault because the lamp couldn't keep pressure more than 5 minutes without pumping.


    I will try to tighten #13 with pliers. I hope that it will fix it!