Hi all
I just learned the following from Maxus-Minimax in an older thread:
"4) The needle don´t seal the jet.
There is a valve in the botom of the vaporizer to close it."
And of course - when my old Petromax 826 does not have this valve in the bottom of the lower vaporizer - a small amount of air will come out in closed position.
But then again this does not matter when the lantern does not have a rapid preheater
I will return later in the weekend with more photos.
Have a nice evening
Hi again
Now I have started to restore one of the three lanterns; The old Petromax 826, and during the first preasure test I have encountered a problem - or a least a fact that I am not sure is a problem or normal.
Here is what I have done:
Replaced the graphite packing #113, lead washer #90, pump leather, check valve core #17, rubber washer for preasure gauge #11, nipple #50 and needle #68
I have not been able to change the complete vaporizer valve #196 (or parts), since this older model does come with it from the factory - only a normal pipe going down in the tank.
This is my problem/situation:
Air keeps coming out from the hole in the nipple even when the needle is in top position (1 mm above the nipple). I have tried different needles and different nipples, but still the air is leaking out in closed position.
For your information I am going from 2.5 on the preasure gauge to about 1.8 in 6-8 minutes in closed position.
Is it normal for the nipple not to be completely tight when the needle is in closed position - since the needle ony is meant for clearing the passage in the nipple and because preasure only is applied when the mantle is preheated with alcohol in this model (no rapid preheater)?
If it is not normal - and thereforer a problem, I have some proposals for a solution below:
1) I dont know if it can be because the upper vaporizer part #152 is quite banged up (see pictures) - thefore pushing the coduction rod #104 slightly off-center, and making the needle go a bit off-center in the nipple hole and thereby allowing some air to get out in the opposite "side" of where the rod is pushing the needle up through the hole?? if you can follow me?? 
2) Is it because this model does not have the complete vaporizer valve #196, and therefore it is normal for a little air to get out - somthing that is normal for models without vaporizor valves (and without rapid preheaters) and therefor not an error?
I hope you can help me out.
Kind regards
Casper Falden
Thank you. I will try that
Regards Casper
Hi again Björn
I was actually more interested in a native Chinese preasure lamp - not exported outside China/Asia.
Do you know of any native Chinese brands?
Kind regards
Casper Falden
Hi all
All the parts of the two lanters and the Primus nr. 5 on the first picture has now been cleaned (Plus one old Petromas 826), and parts has arrived from Pelam.
Saturday I will start reasembling them, and preasure test them. And then sunday - following some ritual meat eating and (1) beer drinking me and my friend will light them up for the first time in years.
.. So stay tuned for pictures of the process! 
Hi
I was wondering if anyone of you know if there are any interesting chinese preasure lanters?
I am NOT looking for quality of course, but perhaps some different design and so on.
The reason I am asking is because a friend of mine is going to China soon, and would like to bring something home for me - and what could be more fun than a cheap, poorly made chinese lamp just to have something to compare my quality lamps to?
But quality aside it would still be fun to have a different design/size/anything... So if any of you have heard of a chinese preasure lamp that could meet these criterias, please let me know.
Kind regards
Casper Falden
Hi
(I am writing to you all here since there is no area for stoves i the English forum area)
I would like to know which spare parts I should use for a Primus nr. 5 I just bought.
Can I use some of the spare parts listed in Pelams webshop or do I need to find old Primus nr 5 parts for the large parts? -and what about washers and packings?
The parts I need are: Grill, all washers/packings, Inner cap for silent burner, outer cap for silent burner, valche spanner and pump leather.
Thanks in advance
Casper Falden
Hi again
I thought I would show you one of my older lamps - a Petromax 826 - used as a prop in a photo taken of my wife for her Myspace aacount and as a press photo. Nice to see two beauties next to each other:-)
Feel free to check out her music at www.myspace.com/vibekefalden
Hi Björn
No the 350cp/500cp mixing tube does not fit by default, but I will try to make the hole a bit bigger as we have talked about here.
I have also considered to bye a new complete inner casing, but that will only be a final solution if I cannot resuse some of the original parts.
Thank you for your help so far. I will upload pictures of the progress one of the comming days.
Casper
Hi Björn
Thanks for your answer.
The lamps arrived yesterday, and I checked the inner chimney (I did not have the time to upload a picture because we left for a trip for the weekend).
I can tell you that the holes in the chimney are too small for the 500CP mixing tube. Furthermore I have discovered that the thread on the intact mixing tube (where you mount the mixing chamber) is different to the "modern" thread size on the 350/500 CP mixing chambers.
So since I have two inner casings where one of my mixing tubes and one of my nozzels are broken, I think I will have to take the functioning mixing tube and the functioning nozzel and one of the functioning mixing chambers to make one complete inner casing - and then buy a new 500CP mixing tube, mixing chamber and nozzle for the other inner chimney, and then use a file to make the hole above the needle big enough for it to fit the mixing tube. Do you agree in this??
Another thing - in your answer you recomend the 500 CP parts, but what about 350 CP parts? Is t because I will get some other benefits than increased CP when I use the 500 CP parts compared to the 350 CP parts (Of course mounting the correspondant needles and nipples)??
And one last thing. You write that "only jets and needles are different to the 500cp". By "jets" I assume you mean Part nr. 50: Nipple ??
Kind regards - Casper
P.S. I will upload pictures of my progress in restoring the lamps and will be looking forward to your feedback on this "old gold"
Hello to all of you in the forum!
I have recently become the owner of two older kerosine preasure lamps, and since I normally restore the newer models, I have a few questions for the forum.
The two models are: Optimus 300P and a Primus 1082 (I have attached an image sent to me from the woman who sold them to me)
I know they are both are 300 cp lamps, but I would like to know if it would be best to use CP250 spare parts or CP350 parts? The parts that are broken are the mixing tube on one, the nozzle on the other and both could need new needles. Regarding seals I will of course also change the ones needed.
(I am aware that changing to either 250 or 350 parts would require that I change some of the other non-broken parts for optimal function, but that will be done through trial-and-error testing since I - as a matter of principle - would like to maintain as many original parts as possible)
And I would also like to know what the correct distance between the mixing tube and the nipple containg the needle is in mm for these models, so I can get the correct mix of kerosine and air.
That is it for now.
Thanks
